The Rolex Submariner 114060 is a classic watch beloved by many and afforded by so very few. If you’re someone who can appreciate the craftsmanship of a Rolex then you probably won’t be surprised by the price. The Submariner 114060 is one of more popular watches sought after by collectors and non-collectors alike. Which one are you?
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Intro | Rolex Submariner 114060
Of all the luxury wrist watch brands, Rolex is the most ubiquitous. You don’t have to be a watch collector or horology geek to appreciate the build quality and precision timekeeping of a Rolex Submariner. They say you can never go wrong with a Rolex, because every single one of their watches is certified for precision timekeeping by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and is water resistant to at least 100 meters.
Even though these watches are super expensive, the cost you pay is justified by the quality of materials and craftsmanship that goes into making each and every one of these majestic timepieces. Rolex makes their own mechanical watch movements, and even has an inhouse scientific research lab to come up with new alloys and ceramic compounds if existing materials aren’t good enough to fulfil their requirements. And this is probably surprising to you, but they even have their own gold foundry where they produce 3 unique blends of gold – 18 karat yellow, white, and Everose.
VIDEO REVIEW | Rolex Submariner 114060
We already know that a Rolex is precise, built from exquisite alloys, and will last for several decades if you take proper care of it. But which Rolex is right for you? You see, there are plenty of models to choose from and each model is further divided into unique variants based on color schemes and materials used to build the case, bracelet, or bezel.
For example, the famous Submariner is available in two different versions – one without a date complication, and the other with a date complication. The Submariner Date is available in 7 different flavors, each one of these differs based on color and materials used. While the differences are pretty subtle at first glance, they can make a big impact on the overall personality and styling of the watch.
In this article, we shall review 3 of the most popular Rolex watches currently available for sale – the Submariner 114060, the Yacht Master II 116680WAO, and the GMT Master II 116710LN. The alphanumeric codes at the end of each model refer to a particular configuration of the watch, since each one of these models is available in so many different colors and materials.
Some have stainless steel cases, while the others are built with 18k gold cases. Some have polished bracelet links, while the others have brushed finishing on the bracelet. Some have single – tone color schemes while the others have dual tone schemes. And based on these differences, the prices for the same model can vary wildly between different configurations.
Rolex Submariner 114060 — Overview
Features:
- Triplock Winding Crown : Triplock winding crown is a patented triple waterproofness system designed especially for divers’ watches. Developed by Rolex, it resists water pressure to depths of 300 metres (1,000 feet) on the Submariner models.
- Ceramic Bezel : Manufactured by Rolex from an extremely hard ceramic material since 2005, the exclusive Cerachrom bezel insert and monobloc bezel have excellent anti-corrosion properties and keep their vibrant colours over time. They are virtually scratchproof, and are unaffected by exposure to sunlight as well as to chlorinated or sea water.
- Rolex Glidelock : An exclusive, easy-to-operate bracelet extension system for divers’ watches, patented by Rolex.Enables a fine adjustment of the bracelet of up to 20 mm in 2 mm increments, without the aid of tools.Allows the watch to be worn over a 3 mm diving suit.
- Versatile Style : Can be worn at home, underwater or at wedding or gala dinner.
- Unidirectional rotatable bezel : Engraved 60-minute graduations allow a diver to accurately and safely monitor diving time and decompression stops. Manufactured by Rolex from a hard, corrosion-resistant ceramic, the Cerachrom bezel insert is virtually scratchproof. A luminescent capsule on the zero marker ensures legibility, no matter how dark the environment.
- Oyster bracelet : Equipped with an Oysterlock clasp, which prevents accidental opening, and an ingenious Glidelock, allowing fine adjustments of the bracelet without using any tools
- Perpetual Movement : Equipped with calibre 3130 and calibre 3135 respectively, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex.
- Model case : Oyster, 40 mm, Oystersteel
- Oyster architecture : Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown
- Scratch-resistant sapphire
- Precision : -2/+2 sec/day, after casing
- Functions : Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time setting
✓ View or download the MANUAL and the BROCHURE for the Rolex Submariner 114060.
Overview
Its iconic design and amazing reliability make this watch a must – have for any serious watch collector or Rolex enthusiast. Not only does it fit in alongside a dress for gala dinners, conferences, board meetings, etc. but it also slips on top of a dive suit and stays waterproof up to 300 meters (1000 feet). If you are trying to decide which Rolex you should buy and can’t make up your mind on any particular model, just get the Submariner.
If there were one watch that suits every occasion without which you would never leave your home, this would be it. Perfect for adventurers, businessmen, and athletes. And the coolest thing about the Submariner is that it has been worn by famous celebrities since the first model was released back in 1953. James Bond wore a stainless – steel no date Submariner in the Dr. No movie back in 1962. Ashton Kutcher, David Beckham, Brad Pitt, and even the legendary action movie star Steve McQueen have been spotted with Rolex Submariners on their wrists.
Roger Federer, one of the best tennis players of all time has also been spotted wearing one of these fine timepieces. Not a surprise to anyone, since the Swiss tennis player is a brand ambassador for Rolex and they gladly pay him more than 14 million dollars per year to promote their name.
As it is with all Rolex watches, the Submariner is available in several versions. But we can divide them into two sections – date, and no date. The no date model is only available in stainless steel and features a black “Cerachrom” bezel insert. What is Cerachrom? It is a special type of ceramic that was developed and patented by Rolex back in 2005 for their GMT Master II and Yacht Master watches. Later, it was also featured in the Submariner stainless steel model. Unlike regular ceramic compounds, Cerachrom retains its luster far longer and is completely impervious to UV rays which means the color won’t fade off even if you expose it to sunlight on a daily basis. Cerachrom is also harder and more scratch resistant compared to regular ceramic, and its polished black surface provides a contrasting background for the platinum or gold numerical engravings on the bezel.
Here is an interesting fact – even though the base Submariner model doesn’t contain a date complication and is only available in stainless steel, it is more sought after by Rolex aficionados and watch lovers. It is also cheaper compared to the Submariner Date, which is available in 7 different flavors. So why is the cheaper, more basic Submariner a more desirable watch to enthusiasts?
There are many ways to go about it, but we shall give you the two main reasons. Firstly, it is a tribute to the original Submariner that was released back in the fifties. The original submariner was intended to be a diving watch first and foremost. It featured the classic Oyster stainless steel case and a rotatable bezel, so divers could time their decompression stops and total time underwater. Back then, it was water resistant up to 100 meters. Over time, it gained popularity by virtue of being featured in several movies.
Rolex Submariner 114060 vs Rolex Submariner 114060
Sean Connery and Roger Moore wore these watches in movies such as Dr No, The Man with the Golden Gun, Live and Let Die, License to Kill, etc. Over time, the Submariner was adopted by naval warfare forces such as the British Royal Navy (Reference 6538, made in 1955) and the Royal Canadian Navy (Reference 6538 made between 1956 to 1958). This rising popularity meant that the Submariner was no longer just a diver’s watch. It was mainstream now, and everybody from athletes to businessmen were wearing these. And in its new urban setting, the Submariner evolved to meet the changing demands of its users.
The first Submariner Date model was released in 1966, reference number 1680. It also had a “cyclops” magnifying lens installed above the date window, so you could see the date more legibly.
The second reason people love the stainless steel Submariner so much is because of how well it holds value. Generally speaking, luxury watches made from precious metals like gold, platinum, etc. will lose more value over time compared to the stainless steel models. This is less of an issue with Rolex watches, since they are designed to be the handyman’s watch. Stainless steel Rolex watches are tougher and less likely to get scratched or scuffed during their time of use, which means they will be in a better condition when you sell them on the second hand market. And right now, vintage is extremely popular.
People are buying stainless steel Rolexes from the 60’s and 70’s for 15 or 20 grand, depending on how rare the watch is and who wore it. Gold watches or platinum watches aren’t something you can wear everyday, and there are a lot of buyers out there who will try to value the watch in terms of how much scrap it can generate. Scrappers don’t care about the history of the watch, or the craftsmanship that went into it, they just want to flip it for its worth in metal (gold, silver, etc.). And although scrappers aren’t an issue with more expensive gold watches, since they mostly search for cheap watches under the 1000 or 2000 dollar range, there is a higher chance of you getting offers from authentic watch enthusiasts in the future when you put your stainless steel Rolex on sale.
Keep in mind that not all watches made from precious metals will lose their value, it all depends on the brand and the manufacturing process. Rolex watches are the best in terms of retaining value, simply because of how popular the brand is and the quality of materials that is used in making these watches. Some brands use rhodium coating on the gold case to create a white gold look, whereas Rolex mixes metals like copper and platinum within the gold to create alloys that don’t lose their color or shine when polished. This means that the Rolex will retain its look over several service and maintenance cycles, and you can sell it for a higher amount of money compared to a watch that uses inferior metal manufacturing processes.
Learn more about the Rolex Submariner 114060 by visiting the Rolex site.
A Closer Look at the Submariner
Let’s talk about the design of the Submariner (reference 114060) for a little bit. It features a 40mm diameter stainless steel middle case, stamped and machine from a solid block of steel alloy that Rolex calls “Oystersteel”. Oystersteel belongs to the 904L family of austenitic stainless steel and is utilized for its higher corrosion resistance as well as superior shine compared to regular stainless steel. But it is also harder to machine compared to other grades of steel, which makes it all the more impressive that Rolex manages to create such intricate cases and bracelets out of it.
The Oyster case on the Submariner is hermetically sealed, which means no air or water is getting inside. The winding crown uses a hermetic seal too and is comprised of nearly 10 parts. It attaches to the case with three different sealing zones and prevents water from entering inside, up to a depth of 300 meters. Rolex claims that their specially designed crown works just like a submarine hatch. The fluted screw – down case back can be attached and removed by a special tool only given to authorized Rolex watchmakers.
Rolex refrains from using transparent or clear case backs unlike some of the other luxury watch brands such as Patek Philippe, and there are a couple of reasons for that. The movement within a Rolex is meant to be functional and precise, not beautiful. While the more expensive and rarer luxury watches decorate their mechanical movements with rubies and emeralds, so they look better through a clear case back, Rolex only does something if it improves the precision and durability of the watch. Their watches are intended for sport and rugged use, and a clear case back doesn’t make sense for these applications where durability and structural strength is of utmost importance.
The bracelet is also made from Oystersteel and uses flat 3 – piece links. We love the all brushed finish on the bracelet, every single link has a brushed finish unlike some of the other bracelets which have brushed side links with polished center links. Brushed finish is less shiny and gives the watch a more utilitarian look, which fits in perfectly with the stainless steel construction and lack of a date window. This watch is meant to be used daily, and you won’t really benefit from a polished bracelet when you are scuba diving. The brushed finish also retains its looks for more time, since it hides scratches better. And you can even wear this watch to work without having to put it on a leather strap because of how understated and composed this brushed finish looks.
While we like the Oystersteel bracelet on the Submariner, we absolutely adore the Oysterlock clasp and think it is a genius innovation. This safety clasp snaps on within seconds and is extremely easy to undo when you want to take off the watch. It even has a little safety latch that prevents the watch from slipping off accidentally. But the really amazing thing about this clasp is the Rolex Glidelock link extension that gives you an extra 2.5 links worth of strap length on demand.
Originally designed so you can slip this watch over a diving suit without having to manually add extension links, the Glidelock is surprisingly handy during the summer when your wrist expands and shrinks over the course of the day. You can increase or decrease the size of the bracelet in 2mm increments, which is super precise. The Glidelock link adjustment also allows the Submariner to fit comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes. If your wrist size is between 6.5 and 7.5 inches, this watch is perfect for you.
The rotating bezel is unidirectional and has a stainless steel rim that is ridged so you can conveniently turn it while wearing gloves or when the watch is wet (underwater). The extremely scratch – resistant bezel insert is made from a patented Rolex ceramic compound called Cerachrom, and it is polished to generate an amazing shine. The back color of the bezel perfectly contrasts the brushed stainless steel case. It also matches the black colored dial.
Having a unidirectional bezel means that you cannot accidentally decrease the supposed amount of time you have been underwater, you can only increase it. This way, when you knock your watch on something while diving, you won’t think you have more time than you actually do. Setting the bezel is super easy, you just have to sync the zero marker with the minute hand on your submariner.
It has 1 minute markers until 15 minutes, and after that the markers are arranged in 5 minute increments. What’s really cool about this ceramic bezel is the platinum inserts – first they coat the entire Cerachrom bezel with a thin layer of platinum using PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition). Then, they remove the excess platinum from the surface with a special polishing process that leaves only the numerals and markers covered in platinum. The inserts for the numerals and markers on the bezel are molded into the ceramic before platinum coating is applied. Finally, they add the luminescence that causes the markers to glow in darkness and underwater. This particular Rolex Submariner model features blue luminescence.
Next, let’s take a look at what is possibly the cleanest and purest looking dial we have ever seen on a Submariner, at least the new models. The absence of a date window and cyclops lens means that the dial is very symmetrical and may actually seem larger than it is, especially if you have owned a Submariner Date prior to this one. The legibility of the numerals is increased, and there is less clutter on the face of the watch which makes it far more suitable for diving, since you can easily read the face of the watch underwater.
We also get the classic Mercedes hour hand, along with the sword shaped minute hand and sweeping second hand. How to know it is a Rolex? Just watch that second hand glide across the dial without any tick – tock sounds, it just moves so smoothly. Almost like a sweeping motion, hence the name “sweeping second hand”. Contrary to what many people think, this second hand isn’t actually moving in a continuous motion across the dial. Instead, it is ticking multiple times each second unlike a Quartz watch which ticks once per second. So, a sweeping second hand makes several little movements between each second, which makes it seem more aesthetically pleasing.
There are no Roman numerals or numbers to show the time on the dial, instead you have large hour markers with second markers at the rim of the dial. The 12 o’clock marker is triangle shaped, right under it is the famous Rolex crown with the writing “Oyster Perpetual”. The 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock hour markers are rectangles, while the rest are circles. The outlines for the markers are etched in 18 karat white gold to prevent tarnishing over time, and the inside is filled with Chromalite luminenscence that glows blue in the dark (needs to be charged up in light, can last up to 8 hours). And all of this is covered with a beautiful sapphire crystal that is held in place by the Cerachrom bezel.
There is anti-reflective coating on both sides of the sapphire crystal, so you will have no trouble reading the watch face at any time in the day whether you are inside or outside the house. This synthetic sapphire glass is extremely tough and scratch resistance, one of the main reasons why Rolex was able to rate this watch as water resistant up to 300 meters.
Finally, we arrive at the movement inside the Rolex Submariner 114060. Like all other modern Rolexes, it uses an automatic perpetual motion movement that is developed completely in – house. It surpasses the Swiss Chronometer standards by a large margin, with maximum daily variation under 2 seconds (positive or negative). To be classified as a Chronometer by the COSC, a mechanical watch must keep time accurately within -4/ +6 seconds daily. Rolex is the maker of the most accurate and precise Swiss mechanical watches, according to COSC standards.
The Submariner 114060 uses a Rolex Caliber 3130 movement, it is self – winding and has a power reserve that lasts up to 48 hours. This means when fully wound, the watch will keep working for the next 48 hours even when it is completely stationary. It draws energy to wind the spring through a bidirectional half – moon shaped rotor that is connected to a ratcheted gear assembly. This rotor spins up and down on its axis when you move your wrists, and the movement of the rotor is transferred to the main spring of the watch where it is stored as potential energy to drive the rest of the gear train.
There are synthetic rubies within the movement that are cut into perfectly shaped bearings for the tiny gears and cogs that form the core of this watch’s movement. Rubies are used because they produce very little friction, and also because it is impossible to make traditional bearings that are so small as to fit the tiny gears within a watch’s movement. One of the newest improvements to the movement within the Submariner is the addition of a blue Parachrom hairspring.
The Parachrom hairspring is virtually unaffected by variations in temperatures, so the watch will show the same time whether you are in the middle of a desert or climbing a snow covered mountain. It is also anti-magnetic and 10 times more resistant to physical shocks compared to a regular hairspring found in ordinary mechanical watches. This means the Submariner can keep time more accurately even as you engage in athletic activity throughout the day (or go diving in the ocean). The caliber 3130 movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour and uses specially designed lubricants that are developed exclusively by Rolex for their watches.
VIDEO | Rolex Parachrom hairspring
The Submariner Date
Now that you know everything about the base Submariner model (reference 114060), let’s take a look at some of the variations that Rolex made to this design. The Submariner Date is available in 7 different versions, each varying in terms of material and color.
Oystersteel and Yellow Gold (blue bezel and dial):
The highlight of this Submariner Date version is its use of Rolesor, which is a term patented by Rolex back in 1933. It isn’t any new metal alloy, it simply refers to the combination of Rolex’s special 18k yellow gold and 904L stainless steel. Some parts of the watch are made from stainless steel, while the others are made from yellow gold. For instance, in this Submariner Date (reference 116613LB) gold is used for the bezel, winding crown, and center bracelet links.
The middle case, case back, lugs, and side bracelet links are made from stainless steel (Oystersteel). The bezel is equipped with gold plated inserts that match very well with the Royal Blue color. The dial is also blue in color to match the bezel, and it uses 18k yellow gold hour markers with Chromalite luminescence embedded into the hands and face of the watch. You will also find a cyclops magnification lens on the right side of the sapphire crystal, right above the date window. While the Submariner 114060 uses a caliber 3130 movement, the 116613LB uses a caliber 3135 movement.
The 3135 movement was first used by Rolex in 1988 and is one of the larger automatic watch movements at 28.5mm in diameter and 6mm tall. It uses 31 jewels, beats 28,800 times per hour, and has a proven track record in several Rolex watches over the last 30 years. The Submariner Date 116613LB is extravagant, yet rugged at the same time. It uses stainless steel on the case and side links of the bracelet which means it is less likely to get scratched or dented when you take it out, but the cleverly designed gold parts of this watch give it that prestigious look which is missing from a pure stainless steel model. It is more of a dress watch than the base Submariner, due to the gold features and date function.
Oystersteel and Yellow Gold (black bezel and dial): It uses the exact same case and bracelet as the 116613LB, but switches things up with a black dial and bezel. Some people like blue with yellow gold, others like the classic black and gold combo that you see in this version of the Submariner Date (reference 116613LN). The crown, bezel, and center bracelet links are 18k yellow gold, and feature a polished finish. The side bracelet links are 904L stainless steel, with a brushed finish. The watch hands are made from yellow gold and look great on top of the black dial.
Oystersteel: This is the most basic version of the Submariner Date (reference 116610LN), and probably the one that most people will buy. It is the most practical and robust watch of all the Submariner Date models, thanks to the all stainless steel construction which means it is less likely to get damaged or tarnished over time. And the date function is useful if you wear this watch to work, social events, etc. It uses the exact same case and bracelet as the rest of the Submariner Date models, only this time all 3 of the bracelet links are brushed. The only parts of this watch with polished finish are the sides of the case, which shine brighter than the top.
White Gold with Blue Dial and Bezel: To the untrained eye, it may seem like another stainless steel watch. But look closely, the shine and texture on this watch is quite different from even the most polished of stainless steels. This is a Submariner Date (reference 116619LB) made from white gold, or more specifically – Rolex’s 18k implementation of white gold. White gold is used by several watch manufacturers, and each brand has their own formula to create this elegant looking alloy.
Typically, it is made by mixing gold with small amounts of nickel and platinum. Some brands plate their white gold models with a thin layer of rhodium to enhance the shine, but this rhodium plating wears off after a couple of servicing cycles if you polish the watch, and its shine (as well as value) decreases soon after. Rolex doesn’t do rhodium plating, instead they use an exclusive and highly guarded metallurgic formula to create their white gold so that it never loses its luster, no matter how many times you polish the surface.
What we love about this white gold Rolex is the fact that it represents hidden prestige. Most people will immediately spot yellow gold watches, but only the trained eye can distinguish between stainless steel and white gold watches. You can walk around in the midst of people knowing exactly what you are wearing on your wrist and the only time someone will notice this white gold Submariner, is if they too are a watch enthusiast such as yourself. In which case, the two of you can start a nice conversation about your watch collection.
Understated, but uniquely elegant – the Submariner date in white gold and a blue bezel + dial is a brilliant choice for the self made man who doesn’t wish to flaunt his wealth.
Yellow Gold with Black Dial and Bezel: Probably the flashiest looking of all the Submariner Date models. This yellow gold Rolex (reference 116618LN) is designed to attract the maximum number of eyeballs and is the least sporty of the bunch. It is more of a watch that you wear once or twice a month, maybe to a wedding or nightclub. It features 18k yellow gold all over the place – the entire case, including the bezel and case back are gold, as is the bracelet.
One really neat detail is the high polish on the center bracelet links, which makes them stand out from the rest of the body. These center bracelet links shine brighter and have a smoother texture compared to the other parts of the watch which utilize a brushed finish. Another neat little detail is the golden rim on the black dial with the word “Rolex” engraved onto it. The bezel insert is made from Cerachrom and features gold inserts. This is one of the Rolex watches that would look amazing on a leather strap.
Oystersteel with Green Dial and Bezel: Also know as the Submariner “Hulk”, this Date version of the classic diver’s watch is distinguished by a sunburst green hue on the bezel which is reminiscent of our favorite gamma radiation charged superhero from Marvel. The Hulk (reference 116610LV) is not to be confused with the Kermit (reference 16610V). Both the Hulk and Kermit are highly desirable collectors’ items, representing Rolex’s departure from their standard coloring scheme, but one of these two is not like the other.
The Kermit uses a glossier green finish on its aluminum bezel, while the Hulk uses a less shiny green on its ceramic bezel. The Cerachrom bezel is more scratch resistant compared to the aluminum one and was introduced in 2010. Another thing to note is the dial color – the Kermit uses a black dial while the Hulk sports a green dial. Both watches have markers on the bezel and dial that are made from 18k white gold. Another key differentiation between the Kermit and Hulk is the lug size – even though both use 40mm diameter Oystersteel cases, the Hulk appears more muscular thanks to its wider lugs.
The Kermit (discontinued in 2010) maybe slightly more expensive compared to a brand new Hulk, because it is the 50th anniversary edition Submariner and sports a unique black dial + green bezel combo. The Hulk got its name from the all – green color scheme and larger lugs that give it a sportier, more masculine look.
Yellow Gold with Blue Dial and Bezel: Basically, a version of the yellow gold Submariner Date (reference 116618LB) with a blue dial and bezel combo. The yellow gold Submariner Date we reviewed prior to this one had a black bezel and dial. Both the blue and black bezel versions use 18k yellow gold on the case and bracelet, along with yellow gold markers on the bezel insert and dial.
They both use 40mm Oyster cases made from 18k gold that is stamped and machined from a solid block. Both the blue and black versions are equipped with the Glidelock extension system and feature highly polished center bracelet links. They both use the caliber 3135 movement and have Chromalite luminescence that glows blue in the dark.
Rolex Yacht-Master II — 116680
While the Submariner was born as a result of Rolex’s ties with deep sea exploration and divers, the Yacht – Master was introduced to further their commitment towards sailors and water sports. Rolex sponsors some of the finest and most competitive offshore races. They were established as a luxury sports watch brand and gained a lot of popularity for creating iconic timepieces such as the Submariner and GMT Master which were designed for underwater explorers and pilots respectively.
A lot of sailors and yacht racers wanted a Rolex that was customized to their unique needs, and so the first Yacht – Master was released back in 1992. Some of the yachting events sponsored by Rolex include – the Sydney Hobart yacht race, Maxi yacht Rolex Cup, Rolex Swan Cup, Rolex Fastnet Race, TP52 World Championship, etc.
Sailing watches are associated with adventure, exclusivity, and quality. That’s because the sport of yacht racing is only reserved for the extremely rich and privileged folks who can afford to own a yacht and crew. But you don’t have to be a yacht owner or millionaire to purchase a Yacht Master II. It is a great general purpose sport watch. While the Rolex exclusive regatta timer function on this watch was originally designed to time the 10 minute countdown commonly found on regatta races, you can use it for pretty much anything.
Like timing the duration between shots in a party or doing a countdown for the pasta you are cooking (or maybe counting down the time to someone’s birthday!). The coolest part about this 10 minute countdown function is that it is programmable all the way from 1 to 10 minutes, and you can reset it to the previous setting that you used. There is a unique mechanical memory built into the Yacht – Master II which you can access by rotating the bezel.
So, how to program the regatta timer on this watch? It is actually a very simple process. First you rotate the bezel counter – clockwise to unlock the memory programming function. Then you depress the pusher that is located underneath the Triplock winding crown. Now, you unscrew the crown and adjust the regatta hand (the one with a red triangle pointer). Set it to any number between 1 and 10 minutes, then rotate the bezel back into its normal position. This will release the depressed lower pusher and lock access to the mechanical memory. Screw back the crown. And now you can start the timer by pressing the top pusher. Press the top pusher again to pause and press the bottom pusher to reset.
When you reset, the timer won’t go back to zero because it has a built in memory. Instead, the regatta hand will fly back to whatever minute you last set it at. The entire process is very smooth and has a nice mechanical feel to it, something that you will never find in a lifeless digital watch.
Program the regatta timer | Rolex Yacht-Master II : 116680
Each turn of the rotating bezel makes a tactile click, and the pushers move in and out with a very satisfying pop sound. Unlike the Daytona Chronograph, you don’t have screw – down pushers which is a really neat improvement, something that comes in handy when you are racing or doing any sporty activity. No time needs to be wasted for unscrewing the pushers, you have them ready at all times.
Another amazing innovation found on the Yacht – Master II is the Easylink bracelet extension. While it doesn’t provide the same degree of versatility as the Glidelock system on the Submariner, 5mm of adjustment should be plenty to accommodate for wrist expansion and contraction during the day. And this is a generously sized watch, it will fit perfectly on wrists as large as 8 inches. If you like the aesthetics of a muscular looking sports watch such as the Submariner but want something with a case larger than 40mm, the Yacht – Master II is perfect for you. It is the largest watch currently manufactured by Rolex, with a case diameter of 44mm.
VIDEO | Screw–Down Pushers
Like all other Rolexes, the Yacht – Master II is available in a multitude of configurations depending on colors and materials used. The one we are looking at is the Yacht – Master II reference 116680. This is the stainless steel, blue bezel model. Of all the stainless steel watches that Rolex makes, this is probably the best looking. It is undoubtedly a sports watch, anyone can tell that from the large 44mm case size and gigantic lugs. It is built for daily use, since Rolex used 904L stainless steel which is harder than conventional stainless steel and more corrosion resistant, so you don’t stain your watch over time by exposing it to sea water. And the polished center links on the Oyster bracelet shine brilliantly under the sun when you take it out for a day on the beach.
This watch has a very “nautical” look to it, which is emphasized by the white dial color that is borrowed from gauges you find on ships. And the navy blue bezel fits in perfectly with its sailing theme and looks great on the brushed stainless steel case. The sides of the case are polished to a high degree, so they shine better while the top is less flashy to subdue the overall visual characteristics of a watch that is already so flamboyant and sporty just based on its chronograph design. It has a commanding wrist presence because of the large case size, and an amazingly legible face thanks to the large white gold markers. It uses the 4161 perpetual motion automatic movement which is of course swiss chronometer certified at +/ – 2 seconds per day and has an unusually large power reserve of 72 hours.
You can purchase the Yacht – Master II in several unique styles. We already reviewed the stainless steel model. But Rolex also makes a yellow gold version of the Yacht – Master II (reference 116688), which might just be the most outlandish (and awesome) looking regatta watch we have ever seen. It makes every other Rolex look like children’s toys in comparison. If you ever wondered what a solid gold 44mm chronograph watch should look like, this is it – the shiniest, 2nd most expensive Rolex Yacht – Master you can purchase. Yes, there is a Yacht – Master that costs even more. It is the Yacht – Master 40 in Everose gold with a diamond – encrusted dial. The only other Yacht – Master with a diamond encrusted dial is the Everose gold version of the Yacht – Master 37, and even that is slightly cheaper than the yellow gold Yacht – Master II.
There is a 37mm version of the Yacht – Master called Yacht – Master 37. You also have the Yacht – Master 37 in a bimetal version (reference 268621) with Everose gold and stainless steel. As the name indicates, the Yacht – Master 37 uses a smaller 37mm case which makes it go better with formal clothing, hence it is a hybrid between a sailor’s watch and a dress watch. The Yacht – Master 37 is also available in a platinum + stainless steel bimetal version (reference 268622) which looks absolutely stunning with the polished stainless steel center links, platinum bezel, and dark grey rhodium dial. Other versions of the Yacht – Master 37 include Everose gold with Oysterflex elastic strap (reference 268655), stainless steel + Everose gold bimetal edition, and an extremely rare Everose gold version that features a diamond – paved dial alongside the 18k pink gold markers. Note that the Yacht – Master 37 Everose gold regular edition and diamond paved edition share the same reference number, but one costs nearly twice as much as the other (you can tell the difference when you see them, the latter has a dial that is literally covered with diamonds).
The 40mm version of the Yacht – Master is called the Yacht – Master 40 (well the naming scheme isn’t super creative, but the watches are really awesome) and is also available in various configurations. There is the Yacht – Master 40 in Everose gold (reference 116655) which features a medium – sized 40mm case made from Rolex’s exclusive 18k pink gold. This watch features a black dial and bezel, along with the Oysterflex elastic bracelet. The Oysterflex bracelet wears easier on your wrist and is lighter, giving the watch a sportier feel. It is also extremely durable and stays securely mounted with the help of a titanium and nickel alloy clasp. We already talked about the 40mm Yacht – Master in Everose gold that also has a diamond – paved dial, and the most expensive Yacht – Master currently on sale. Then, you have the bimetal versions of the Yacht – Master 40 – platinum and stainless steel, stainless steel and Everose gold, white gold and platinum. Note that the platinum + stainless steel bimetal Yacht – Master 40 comes in two versions – one with a dark rhodium dial, and the other with a royal blue dial that has the word “Yacht – Master” etched in red.
Rolex GMT Master II 116710LN-
While the Submariner and Yacht – Master were designed to conquer the oceans, Rolex originally created the GMT Master to help pilots doing cross – country flights keep track of time across multiple time zones. If you are a frequent traveler, explorer, or adventurer, your luxury watch collection absolutely needs one of these. And the most practical of them all is the GMT Master II in stainless steel, reference 116710LN. It is extremely resilient to physical damage, will keep track of time with an accuracy of +/ – 2 seconds per day, and is even water – resistant up to 100 meters so you can take it for an occasional swim when you travel around the world.
In terms of design and function, the GMT Master II is very similar to the Submariner Date. Both feature rotating bezels, with one key difference – the Submariner has a unidirectional bezel while the GMT Master II has a bidirectional bezel. Both the Submariner Date and GMT Master II feature 40mm cases, along with a date window and cyclops magnifying lens. Even the layout of the hour markers and overall look of the watch face is similar between the two. But the GMT Master II has an extra hand – the GMT hand which is used to keep track of time between two different time zones simultaneously. How to use the GMT function on the GMT Master II? Well, it is as simple as setting the GMT hand on the current GMT time, and rotating the bezel to add or subtract hours based on the time zone of the remote location you want to track. Note that this particular version of the GMT Master II has a fully black bezel, while several other GMT Master II models feature dual – tone bezels to differentiate between day and night time just like the original GMT Master watch which was distributed to Pan American airline pilots. While the dual tone bezel does make it a little easier to know night from day, it shouldn’t really matter since all GMT watches display time in the 24 hour format which automatically tells you if the time is in am or pm. Anything between 0 to 12 will be am, and anything between 12 to 24 will be pm. You can check out more on how to do that in this video.
So, let us now discuss the subtle differences between the GMT Master II 116710LN and the Submariner Date 116610LN. Both are 40mm stainless steel watches with black bezel and dial. Both have a date window and cyclops magnifying lens. But the Submariner Date uses a brushed finish on all bracelet links, while the GMT Master II features polished center links on its bracelet. This makes the watch stand out when compared to a stainless steel submariner date. Another little difference you can notice is in the hands – the Submariner Date has no GMT hand, but there is one on the GMT Master. The bezel on a Submariner clicks more frequently when you rotate it, because it has 60 steps per 360° rotation. But the GMT Master II bezel only has 24 steps, one for each hour of the 24 hour time format. The GMT Master II bezel is bidirectional, so you can add or subtract hours from the GMT time, while the bezel on a Submariner is unidirectional so you can only increase the amount of time you have been underwater instead of accidentally thinking you have spent less time underwater. These are the external details which anyone can notice. Another difference noticed only if you actually wear these two watches is the bracelet – the Submariner uses a Glidelock system to adjust bracelet length while the GMT Master II has a slightly more limited range of adjustment with its Easylink system (up to 5mm). And the final difference lies within the case in the movement – the Submariner Date reference 116610LN uses the caliber 3135 while the GMT Master II is equipped with the caliber 3186. The 3186 movement is basically an updated 3135 with an extra complication in the GMT hand. The GMT hand makes one complete rotation every 24 hours, so it rotates once for every two rotations of the hour hand. This extra complication is why the 3186 measures 0.5mm more than the 3135.
You can buy the GMT Master II in several configurations based on color and materials. We already discussed the stainless steel model with black bezel and dial. But there is another stainless steel version which is much more special. This one (reference 126710BLRO) features a blue and red dual – tone bezel made from ceramic with platinum inserts. And the bracelet isn’t the standard flat 3 – piece link Oyster bracelet, instead it uses the Rolex Jubilee bracelet which features 5 semicircular pieces in each link. The Jubilee bracelet is more beautiful and elegant, while the Oyster bracelet is tougher and more robust. The GMT Master II is also available in solid Everose gold (reference 126715CHNR), with a dual tone brown and black Cerachrom bezel. This version uses the Caliber 3285 movement, just like the dual tone stainless steel GMT Master II with the Jubilee bracelet. The red and blue bezel can also be obtained on a white gold version of the GMT Master II (reference 116719BLRO) which features the Oyster bracelet with polished center links. There is also another stainless steel version (reference 116710BLNR), except this one uses a blue and black dual tone bezel. Next, we move on to the bimetal versions starting with the steel and yellow gold model (reference 116713LN). This one sports an all black Cerachrom bezel with 18k yellow gold markers deposited through PVD on the polished bezel insert. The bezel, crown and center bracelet links are in yellow gold while the middle case, case back, lugs, and side bracelet links are made from 904L steel. You also have an Oystersteel + Everose gold bimetal model (reference 126711CHNR) which sports a dual tone black + brown bezel. And finally, there are the two solid 18k yellow gold GMT Master II watches – the flashiest of them all. One sports a satin green dial while the other has a black dial. Both are equipped with black Cerachrom bezels and use the 3186 movement. Note that both of the 18k yellow gold GMT Master II watches have the same reference number (116718LN) despite the difference in bezel colors.