What's the Best Chainsaw on the Market? Chainsaw Reviews

And the best chainsaw on the market is…? There is no such thing as the singular best. Sorry, I wish it was that easy, but there are many factors that determine which is the best chainsaw for you, so keep that in mind when reading this buying guide. If all you need to do is prune your trees around your yard, well, a small compact battery chainsaw like the BLACK+DECKER LCS1240 is perfect for you. But if you need to fell 34″ trees on a regular basis then that is the worst chainsaw for you, and in the latter case I’d recommend something like the Makita EA7900PRZ1.

It’s important that you understand my philosophy about choosing the right chainsaw. Unfortunately, I’ve had many people who just want one choice without ever explaining what their needs or budget is. We’re here to actually help you make a smart decision for your specific requirements. We hope this article helps you make a decision you are happy with.

What’s the Best Chainsaw on the Market?

Chainsaws are the most powerful (and versatile) hand – held tools you can own. They come in a variety of sizes and use electricity or gasoline as their source of power. In this article, we shall walk you through the various types of chainsaws currently available for purchase and discuss the pros as well as cons of each design. We will then help you decide which chainsaw is perfect for your specific needs. Maybe you live on a farm and need a chainsaw with raw power that is also sturdily built, in order to cut down your yearly supply of firewood. Or you could be a DIYer who needs something slightly on the smaller side to chop up some 2 x 4. If you are the average homeowner who just wants to prune a couple of fruit trees in the yard, maybe you can get away with an electric chainsaw.

Even though the average electric chainsaw lacks the brute force of a large 65cc forester chainsaw, it is extremely lightweight and easy to operate. And the best part about electric chainsaws is that they require almost zero maintenance. However, you will need to decide between corded and cordless electric chainsaws. Both of these designs have their unique merits and demerits which we shall discuss in further detail. One of the main things you need to focus on while buying a cordless model is the battery – what type of battery does it use, what is the voltage and amp – hour rating, etc. When buying a corded model, you need to check around your home for an outdoor power outlet.

The Best chainsaw for felling large trees | Husqvarna 460 Rancher

best husqvarna chainaw. Gas chainsaw. — Effective anti-vibration system makes it easy to handle. **(Buy from Amazon)**

Most modern cordless tools these days come with universal batteries that can be used interchangeably between tools of the same brand. For instance, the same battery that powers your cordless chainsaw may also be used to run the cordless leaf blower or hedge trimmer. This feature allows you to power an entire family of cordless tools from power drills to chainsaws with just two or three batteries. And finally, we will provide you with some vital info regarding chainsaw maintenance and safety.

You will learn about preventing chainsaw kickback, the importance of chainsaw chaps, and what to do if your gas chainsaw refuses to start. But first, let’s take a look at some of the best chainsaws you can purchase right now. We reviewed gas, electric, and cordless models so there is a wide variety of chainsaw types for you to choose from depending on your preferences.

The Best Chainsaws – Reviews

DEWALT DCCS670X1 FLEXVOLT

16″ Oregon bar and chain, 60V MAX Brushless Chainsaw

Features:

Low Kick Back 16″ Oregon Bar and Chain for construction and outdoor cutting applications
Tool-Free chain tensioning and bar tightening knob for proper bar clamping force
Auto-Oiling for continuous lubrication. Quarter-turn oil cap for quick oil re-fills
Chain brake for kick back protection
Up to 70 cuts per charge* *on a 6″” x 6″” pressure treated pine wood
Amp Hour 3.0 AH
Bar Length : 16 in
System : 60V MAX*
Weight : 12.2 lbs

Overview

If you need a relatively quiet and compact chainsaw for trimming, hunting, pruning, and light construction work, check out the brand – new DeWalt DCCS670X1. It is an electric chainsaw, which means you don’t have to worry about cold starts, chokes, air filters, spark plugs, or carburetors. None of that – just engage the trigger safety, disengage the chain brake, and press the trigger to start cutting. One thing they could have worked on is the trigger safety (mandatory feature required on all electric saws). While it is positioned in a fairly easy to reach spot for right handed people, left handed users will find it slightly hard to engage the safety while starting up the saw.

Other than that minor design flaw, everything about this saw is perfect. Now, it is not meant to be some kind of replacement for heavy duty construction chainsaws or lumberjack saws. In fact, DeWalt’s own 40V cordless chainsaw beats out the 60V Dewalt in terms of power. We believe this is because the 40V MAX lithium ion batteries are equipped with a higher number of cells, which allows them to deliver more amps compared the 60V MAX lithium ion battery. As you can see, the 60V max battery used in the DCCS670X1 is rated for 3.0Ah in its 60V mode while the 40V MAX battery used in the DCCS690X1 is rated for 7.5Ah.

VIDEO | See it in Action : DEWALT 60V FLEXVOLT

In battery terminology, Ah stands for Ampere Hour, and tells you how many amps of current a battery can deliver continuously for one hour before going empty. The 60V MAX lithium ion battery in this chainsaw can also be used in other DeWalt power tools that support FLEXVOLT technology, and even older tools that aren’t equipped with FLEXVOLT support. The battery will automatically detect if it is being used in a different tool and can adjust its voltage. In the 20V mode, this 60V MAX battery can pump out up to 9 amps of current per hour.

And when the 60V MAX battery goes empty, you can get it back to 100 percent charge in just about 45 minutes which is really quick and allows you to get through an entire day of chopping up firewood with just two batteries. You can swap them out and charge one battery while the other one is being discharged. DeWalt says this chainsaw can make up to 75 cuts on dry 6” x 6” pressure treated pine wood, which is pretty impressive. We believe most people who purchase this saw are going to be DIYers and jobsite professionals who need something lightweight and robust to cut wood beams, 4 x 4s, and poles. It can also be used to fell small or medium sized trees, although we don’t recommend trying it out on large logs (above 12 or 14 inches in diameter), because of the limited power and the plastic bucking spikes.

Yes, this saw has plastic bucking spikes which many people consider to be unnecessary. But those tiny plastic dogs are actually appropriate for a cordless chainsaw of this size since you don’t want to put too much pressure on the chain while splitting logs, otherwise you might trigger the overload protection within this saw which prevents excessive amounts of current from flowing into its brushless DC motor. And while we love the tool – free chain tensioning and bar adjustment, make sure to check your chain tension after every cut during the first two hours because brand new chains tend to expand a bit.

Finally, if you want the automatic bar oiler in the DCCS670X1 to work properly, use thick oil instead of something like 15W – 40 engine oil. Thinner oils will leak out of the automatic bar oiler, and you will damage your chain in the long run. Long story short, don’t use motor oil or vegetable oil in there, spend the money on actual chainsaw bar oil.

Toro PowerPlex 51880

Brushless 40V MAX Lithium Ion chainsaw with a 14″ bar and chain. Battery-powered Chainsaw that comes with a 2.5 Ah Battery & Charger.

What is the best chainsaw — Includes a 3 year warranty.

Features:

Brushless DC Motor – More power, more run time and longer life then brushed motor
No Pull Easy Start – Simply push the button
Reduced Kickback – Chain, bar tip indicator, chain brake, and metal bucking teeth
Automatic Chain Oil & Tool-Free Chain Tensioning – Oil level indicator to know when to refill, adjust the chain by turning the knob with fingers

✓ View or download the MANUAL for the Toro PowerPlex 51880.

Overview

Highly affordable 14” cordless chainsaw, with plenty of power for light trimming and limbing jobs all day long. By default, it comes with the Toro PowerPlex T90 lithium ion battery. This battery is rated for 36V (40V max), and 2.5Ah. Multiply the volts with the amp hours, and you get watt hours. For the T90, multiplying 36 by 2.5, we get 90 watt – hours which is how the T90 battery got its name. One really cool feature of the PowerPlex battery platform is the integrated charge indicator LEDs which show you the amount of energy left in the battery even when it isn’t plugged into a tool. And you should be able to get up to 40 cuts in dry 6” x 6” lumber with a single charge.

VIDEO | Learn More about the Toro PowerPlex chainsaw

Charging the T90 with the included Toro Quick Charger (model 88542) only takes 60 minutes. While this is pretty fast compared to cordless chainsaw models from a few years ago, it still lags behind certain DeWalt and Makita cordless chainsaws whose batteries can be recharged in less than 45 minutes. Nevertheless, you should have zero issues with the PowerPlex 51880 chainsaw kit as long as you don’t use it for heavy duty jobs. Notice that we said PowerPlex 51880 chainsaw kit, and not just chainsaw. That is because the chainsaw itself without a battery or charger is sold separately under the PowerPlex “51880T” model name, with T meaning tool only.

If you want a battery with more runtime, purchase the T180 battery which gives you twice the runtime of the T90. It is also a 36V lithium ion battery, but packs more amp hours. How much more? Dividing 180 by 36, we get 5Ah. The T180 battery also comes with a built-in LED flashlight, and a folding top handle so you can easily carry it around. But it also takes longer to charge, at 120 minutes or 2hrs.

Everything else about the PowerPlex 51880 chainsaw is what you would expect to find on any mid – range cordless model – toolless chain and bar adjustment, side view window on the bar oil tank so you can constantly monitor bar oil levels, and a low kickback chain. Just like the DeWalt DCCS670X1 that we reviewed earlier, this cordless chainsaw packs a brushless DC motor so it runs smoother and more efficiently. It will also last longer compared to any cordless chainsaw that uses a brushed DC motor. There is a wall hook underneath the handle, so you can hang it from the garage wall (with the oil drained and battery removed). The quick charger can also be hanged from the wall.

Makita XCU02PT 18V X2 | Cordless

Lithium‑Ion battery-powered 12″ Chainsaw Kit with 5.0Ah and charger.

top rated battery chainsaw on the market. — Rubberized soft grip top handle is comfortable to hold.

Features:

Makita-built motor delivers 1,650 FPM chain speed for faster cutting
“Tool-less” chain adjustment for convenient operation and maintenance
Cordless for reduced maintenance; no need to change engine oil or spark plug, clean air filter or drain fuel for storage
Front hand guard actuates chain brake when engaged
12″ guide bar for increased capacity
Low noise level at only 87 dB(A) and zero emissions for operator comfort
Weighs only 10.1 lbs. with batteries for reduced operator fatigue
Two 18V LXT Lithium-Ion batteries deliver power and performance without leaving the 18V LXT platform
Features Extreme Protection Technology (XPT) which is engineered to provide increased dust and water resistance in harsh job site conditions
Rubberized soft grip top handle is engineered for the user to more easily apply even cutting pressure
Instant start-up: simply load two 18V LXT batteries and the saw is ready to use
Electric brake for maximum productivity
Adjustable automatic chain lubrication with large oil reservoir
Large oil filling port with view window allows operator to easily add and check bar oil level
L.E.D. battery indicators show charge level for each 18V LXT battery
18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah battery BL1850B features an integrated L.E.D. battery charge level indicator
18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah battery BL1850B provides up to 65% more run time per charge compared to 3.0Ah battery BL1830
18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah battery BL1850B reaches a full charge in 45 minutes or less
Dual Port Charger charges two (2) 18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah batteries in only 45 minutes
Dual Port Charger features a built-in USB port for charging portable electronic devices
The Makita Rapid Optimum Charger communicates with the battery’s built-in chip throughout the charging process to optimize battery life by actively controlling current, voltage and temperature
Built-in fan circulates air through the battery during the charging process to cool the battery for faster charge time.
3-year limited warranty on tool, battery and charger

✓ View or download the MANUAL for the Makita XCU02PT.

Overview

There are two things we absolutely love – Honda inverter generators, and Makita cordless chainsaws. With both of those at your disposal, you can get through any storm, hurricane, or home improvement project. The XCU02PT uses two 18V LXT lithium ion batteries and if you don’t already know, the LXT lineup of lithium ion batteries are the most advanced in the entire consumer power tools industry. They last longer, charge faster, and can be used to power one of the largest cordless tool families in the world. You can use the very same 18V LXT batteries that power your XCU02PT chainsaw, to drive your Makita XAG09Z brushless angle grinder, or Makita XSH03Z circular saw (and several other cordless tools in the Makita 18V LXT family).

The unique thing about this cordless chainsaw from Makita that separates it from the DeWalt and Toro cordless models is the handle layout – this is a top handle chainsaw like the ones used by arborists and professional foresters. But you can use it to cut up firewood and storm damaged tree branches in your garden, just don’t try climbing up trees with this chainsaw in your hand unless you have professional training and are certified to do so. Even though this Makita 12” saw is capable of single – handed operation, we strongly discourage anyone who hasn’t used a chainsaw before from trying to look cool with just one hand on the saw. You are setting yourself up for some really serious injuries and a lot of time in the ER.

Despite being a cordless chainsaw, it packs some serious power thanks to the dual 18V 5.0Ah batteries. The guide bar is only 12” long, but you can easily slice through logs as thick as 10 inches. It will handle anything from Cedar and Fir, to mahogany and walnut. Another impressive feature of this chainsaw is how rapidly its batteries charge. You can go from zero to full on both 5Ah batteries in just 45 minutes, which is insane. For reference, the DeWalt has 3Ah batteries which need 45 minutes to charge and the Toro uses 2.5Ah batteries that need 1hr (2hr if you are using the T180 5Ah battery). All of this is thanks to the Star battery protection/ monitoring system, and the Rapid Optimum Dual – Port battery charger (model DC18RD).

Makita XCU03PT1 | 14″ Battery Chainsaw

With 4 5Ah batteries you can literally work all day. While you are cutting wood you can have the other 2 batteries charging. This allows you to continually work, if you need to. Either way, this is one of the best chainsaws on the market. Makita chainsaws are very-well built. The rapid charger will charge two 5Ah batteries in 45 minutes.

Note : If you want a 16″ bar and chain with two batteries then this is the Makita XCU04PT is the perfect chainsaw for you.

Features:

Makita-built Outer Rotor BL Brushless Motor direct-drive system provides high power efficiency equivalent to a 32cc gas chain saw
Variable speed trigger and high chain speed (0-3,940 FPM) for improved cutting performance
“Tool-less” chain adjustment for convenient operation and maintenance
Built-in lock-off lever helps prevent the chain from accidentally engaging
Built-in L.E.D. on/off switch with auto power-off function; automatically shuts the saw off when operation is delayed for extended battery life
Two 18V LXT Lithium-Ion batteries deliver power and performance without leaving the 18V LXT platform
Front hand guard engineered to actuate chain brake when engaged
14″ guide bar for increased capacity
Low noise level and zero emissions for operator comfort
Weighs only 11.5 lbs. with batteries for reduced operator fatigue
Features Extreme Protection Technology (XPT) which is engineered to provide increased dust and water resistance in harsh job site conditions
Electric brake for maximum productivity
Rubberized soft grip top handle is engineered for the user to more easily apply even cutting pressure
Large oil filling port with view window allows operator to easily add and check bar oil level
Adjustable automatic chain lubrication with large oil reservoir
L.E.D. battery indicators show charge level for each 18V LXT battery
18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah battery BL1850B features an integrated L.E.D. battery charge level indicator
18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah battery BL1850B provides up to 65% more run time per charge compared to 3.0Ah battery BL1830
18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah battery BL1850B reaches a full charge in 45 minutes or less
Dual Port Charger charges two (2) 18V LXT Lithium-Ion 5.0Ah batteries in only 45 minutes
Dual Port Charger features a built-in USB port for charging portable electronic devices
The Makita Rapid Optimum Charger communicates with the battery’s built-in chip throughout the charging process to optimize battery life by actively controlling current, voltage and temperature
Built-in fan circulates air through the battery during the charging process to cool the battery for faster charge time.
3-year limited warranty on tool, battery and charger
Only use genuine Makita batteries and chargers

Overview

Compared to the XCU02PT that we just reviewed, the XCU03PT1 is more powerful and comes with a longer bar. Just like the XCU02PT, this Makita chainsaw is part of a kit that includes 4 18V 5.0Ah LXT lithium ion batteries, a Dual Port Rapid Optimum Charger (DC18RD), low kickback saw chain, 14” guide bar, and chain cover. The chainsaw itself is different from the XCU02Z that is included in the XCU02PT kit, this kit comes with a XCU03Z.

What is the difference between the XCU02Z and XCU03Z chainsaws? Well, let us talk about their similarities first – both are equipped with Makita’s-built Outer Rotor BL — a proprietary brushless DC motors for superior efficiency and longer lifetimes. Both use two 18V 5.0Ah LXT lithium ion batteries. And both feature tool – free chain tension and bar height adjustment. But the similarities end there.

Whereas the top – handle XCU02Z is designed to be compact and maneuverable for cutting small branches and trimming garden trees, the rear – handle XCU03Z is meant to handle bigger chunks of wood like 10 and 12-inch logs, 6” x 6” lumber, etc. It is outfitted with a 14 – inch bar, although Makita states that you can upgrade to a 16” bar if you want. And the chainsaw packs enough power to drive a larger chain around a longer bar, there is no doubt about it. After all, the motor in the XCU03Z can spin its low kickback chain at speeds as high as 3940 FPM (feet per minute). In comparison, the XCU02Z’s motor is only capable of 1650 FPM.

Another major distinguishing factor between the two is the variable trigger speed control. With the XCU02Z, you got all 1650 FPM at once when you depressed the trigger. There was no speed control, like you would find on a gas chainsaw. But since the motor didn’t require all that much power to begin with, you didn’t notice the fact that your chainsaw is basically spinning at full power all the time.

VIDEO | See how well the Makita XCU03 Chainsaw cuts.

With the XCU03Z, you can’t spin full power all the time without both 18V 5.0Ah batteries running out in just 10 minutes. That is why they added a variable speed trigger, to keep energy consumption in check and moderate the amount of power that you are applying. But despite that, the XCU03Z suffers from a shorter battery life compared to the XCU02Z. Which is why those two extra 18V batteries come in handy – you can charge one pair on the Dual port Rapid Optimum charger, while the other pair is being used in your saw.

In comparison, the XCU02PT kit only comes with two batteries. One feature many users found to be really annoying on the XCU03Z chainsaw is its LED power ON/ OFF switch which will automatically cut off power to the motor if you don’t use the saw for more than 4 seconds. That has to be a design oversight, because 4 seconds is a very small amount of time to decide whether or not you will make another cut (you could be transitioning in between cuts). And when you are wearing thick gloves, working that power ON/ OFF switch every 4 seconds can really frustrate you.

Makita UC4051A — 16″ Electric Chainsaw

Features:

“Tool-less” blade and chain adjustments for convenient operation and easy maintenance
Rubberized grip handles are ergonomically designed for comfort
Large trigger switch with soft start for smooth start-ups
Built-in current limiter helps protect motor from burnout by reducing power to motor when saw is overloaded
Large oil reservoir with view window allows operator to check bar oil level
Automatic chain oiler for heavy continuous cutting
Electric chain brake for maximum productivity
Zero emissions and reduced maintenance
Soft start for smooth start-ups
Current limiter helps protect motor from damage caused by heat

Overview

This is a basic corded electric chainsaw, so there aren’t a whole lot of interesting features and quirks to talk about. But it does a great job at giving similarly sized gas chainsaws a run for their money. Unlike cordless chainsaws, electric models aren’t limited by the amount of power they can draw from a battery. You just plug an electric chainsaw into the 120V AC outlet, and it keeps working at full power all day long, as long as you supply it with electricity. But don’t overheat the motor by loading it too much. This is a 16” electric chainsaw, so it isn’t meant for handling giant logs or heavy-duty bucking jobs in hardwood.

Makita-UC4051A-electric-chainsaw-review-metal-parts — It’s what’s on the inside that truly matters — & it’s metal. **(Buy from Amazon)**

The trigger speed control isn’t variable like the XCU03Z cordless chainsaws, so you will spin the chain at its maximum speed of 2900 FPM (under no load) whenever you depress the trigger even slightly. This isn’t an issue when you are slicing up firewood for the furnace or trimming down 6” x 6” lumber for your next home project, but it can be troublesome if you are working with a dirty piece of wood that has been used in some kind of construction before and might have nails or wires embedded underneath.

Since you can’t control the speed of the chain, the kickback will be harder when you strike a nail or wire in the wood. But that shouldn’t be an issue since this is a very well – balanced rear handle chainsaw with rubberized grips for maximum traction between your hands and the handles. The electric chain brake does a fine job of stopping the motor in the event of any kickback, although we would have liked to see some additional safety like a throttle interlock lever on top of the rear handle. It has all the usual electric chainsaw convenience features for easy maintenance on the field – toolless chain tension adjustment, automatic bar oiler with view window for monitoring oil levels, and a low kickback chain.

Funnily enough, this relatively simple corded electric chainsaw is equipped with metal bucking spikes while the much more advanced and highly expensive cordless models are using tiny plastic dogs on the front that look like they should be on a Fisher Price toy instead of a chainsaw.

Oregon CS1500 – 603352

Best electric chainsaw. — Made with high-quality components. Very well-constructed.

Features:

Exclusive self-sharpening system PowerSharp
High power motor, 15 amp for fast cutting with a 18″ (45 cm) reduced-kickback guide Bar and chain
Tool-less chain tensioning system
Ergonomic design to remain light-weight and balanced, low vibration, Over-Mold comfortable handle
Integrated chain brake for safety
Low maintence chain saw backed by 2-year consumer and 1-year professional Warranty.
18″ (45cm) bar length
PowerSharp chain, 3/8″ Low Profile with .050″ gauge
Automatic oiler with view-through window
15 amp rating
120 Volt ~ 60 Hz
No load chain speed 2888 FPM
Weighs 12.9 lbs (5.85kg)
Instant start: No pull cords, no warm-up, no gas-oil mixing, no emissions.
Low noise: Much quieter than a gas saw. Silent between cuts.

Overview

You can tell that this is no ordinary electric chainsaw, just from the fact that it uses an 18” bar. Most corded as well as cordless electric models top out at 16” when it comes to bar length, and the few manufacturers who do equip their chainsaws with 18” or 20” bars often forget to include a powerful motor alongside the larger bars. Which is why many of these “scaled – up” electric chainsaws bog down and get overloaded while cutting large logs or felling trees (ever heard of Poulan Pro?).

The Oregon CS1500 is different – it isn’t exactly a quiet electric chainsaw, neither is it compact. But it packs the 2^nd most powerful motor of any corded electric chainsaw we have ever reviewed.

Why is it so powerful? Well, Oregon fitted a 15-amp motor inside the solidly built chassis of this chainsaw. This motor is rated for 2400 watts, which translates to roughly 3.22 horsepower. And despite its relatively low maximum chain speed of 1600 feet per minute, the CS1500 packs plenty of torque to rip through tree trunks, 16” hardwood logs, construction poles, and much more. The low – kickback Oregon bar and chain assembly makes this easy to handle even for novice users, and the toolless chain tension adjustment on this CS1500 chainsaw is super easy to use.

VIDEO | See how easy the CS1500 is to use

https://youtu.be/cXtrdBi44aw

In fact, we believe this is the best toolless chain tension adjustment system of any electric chainsaw out there. But wait – there’s even more goodies packed into the CS1500. It is the only corded electric chainsaw on the market to feature a built-in chain sharpener. When you press that little red lever next to the chain brake and hold down the throttle simultaneously for about 3 seconds, it will sharpen your chain. This feature can prove to be very useful on the jobsite, since you don’t have to take the chain out every time you hit a nail in the wood or a stone in the ground.

Worx WG304.1 | 18″ 15 Amp Electric Chainsaw

Worx WG304.1 : best top rated chainsaws — The best value for the money on the market.

Features:

Powerful 15 Amp motor offers consistent performance and durability
Patented auto-tension chain system prevents over-tightening for extended bar & chain life
Built-in chain brake for added safety
Automatic oil lubrication and built-in oil reservoir with level indicator

Overview

Remember when we said that the Oregon CS1500 has the 2^nd most powerful motor of any electric chainsaw we have ever reviewed? Well, here is the electric chainsaw which claims the number 1 spot on our list. Meet the WORX WG304.1 – it weighs just 11.2 pounds but packs an impressive 4 horsepower motor underneath its plastic body. However, it isn’t the insane power of this electric chainsaw that makes it so desirable. Instead, people love it for how easy it is to use. You would think that a chainsaw which is so light yet powerful might be inappropriate for novice chainsaw operators, but the opposite is true for the WG304.1 thanks to its automatic chain tensioning system and highly refined ergonomics.

Also available as a 16″ Chainsaw (14.5A) — WORX WG303.1

The WG304.1 is extremely rugged and well balanced, because there is nothing on this chainsaw that doesn’t serve a purpose. You have an electric chain brake for safety, an automatic oiler for lubricating the chain, and a translucent oil tank so you can monitor bar oil levels without opening the cap. And the oil cap is located in a very convenient spot. You don’t have to tilt the chainsaw or fiddle around to open the cap, instead it is right there on top of the saw next to the chain brake and is really big, so anyone can open it even while wearing thick gloves.

There are metal bucking spikes on the front, which do come in handy when you are dealing with giant logs like this guy who uses the Worx WG304.1 to split a 36” wide log. Yes, he is cutting a log that is 3 feet wide… with an electric chainsaw! Now you know we weren’t kidding when we said this is the most powerful electric chainsaw.

VIDEO | Cutting a massive log with the Worx WG304.1

So, as you can see. WORX provides a lot of value for the money with these chainsaws. It truly is remarkable how much value they pack into these chainsaws and the reason they sell them so cheap is because they have sold millions of them, allowing them to lower their manufacturing costs. It’s actually a great electric chainsaw. Don’t be fooled by the price tag.

Husqvarna 455 Rancher

Features:

20-inch. 55.5cc engine. 3.5 hp.
12.8 lbs (excluding bar and chain).
X-Torq Engine: Designed to reduce emissions while providing lower fuel consumption. Watch video.
Quick-release air filter: Easy to clean and replace, when needed.
Convenient combination of choke/stop system, allowing easy starting while reducing the chance of flooding the engine.
Air Injected Centrifugal air cleaning system keeps large dust particles and debris out while improving engine life.
Side-mounted chain tensioning system for easy access.
Durable 3 piece crankshaft.
Ergonomic front handle provides a comfortable grip while reducing fatigue.
LowVib System greatly reduces vibration and minimizes fatigue.
Adjustable oil pump enables you to control the amount of lubrication depending on your needs.
Felling marks help you fell trees with precision.
Smart Start: The Husqvarna 455 Rancher is engineered to be easy to start with minimal effort.
Air Purge: Makes starting easier by clearing air from the carburetor and fuel system.
Inertia activated chain brake for increased safety and reducing the chance of kickback.
CARB compliant.

Overview

While the Oregon CS1500 and Worx WG304.1 are both incredibly powerful electric chainsaws, they can’t compare to the Husqvarna 455 Rancher. This is a good old gas-powered chainsaw with a large 55.5cc 2 – stroke engine that places it above all electric chainsaws in terms of power. Even though the WG304.1 has an extra 0.5hp compared to the 455 Rancher, there is a reason that chainsaw uses an 18” bar while this one is factory – fitted with a 20” bar by default.

The engine in the 455 Rancher develops 3.2Nm of torque and revs all the way up to 9000 rpm which is higher than most sports cars and super-bikes. Yes, you have to mess around with fuel – oil mixes and carburetor adjustment in order to get the most out of this saw, but that is part of the price you have to pay in return for performance.

There is no toolless chain tensioning in the 455 Rancher, as is the case with most gas-powered chainsaws. This isn’t something that you would use for pruning trees in the garden or cutting 4 x 4s for your next DIY project. The 455 Rancher is a prosumer grade chainsaw and is intended for felling medium sized trees or bucking logs up to 40” in diameter. It is for farmers, arborists, firefighters, etc. If you cut firewood on a daily basis or find yourself clearing out fallen branches and dead trees a lot of the time, this chainsaw might be for you. If you want something that will be used once or twice a year, you are better off getting an electric saw because they are much easier to store, and you don’t have to worry about fuel going bad or the saw failing to start in the winter.

Jonsered CS2245

18-inch gas powered chainsaw. One of the best chainsaw for handling a wide variety of cutting jobs around the yard.

Features:

Clean power engine technology reduces harmful exhaust emissions up to 75% and increases fuel efficiency up to 20%, while providing raw power − even at low speeds.
Unique turbo intake air cleaning technology uses centrifugal force to separate and remove up to
97% of sawdust and dust particles from air before it reaches the air filter for optimal performance
Chainsaw handles are insulated from engine and cutting equipment with steel springs, for lower vibration dampening and incredible ergonomics, effectively reducing operator fatigue on long work days.
Tool-free, side-mounted chain tensioner for fast, convenient chain adjustments.
Quick-release snap-locked cylinder covers enables quick, easy access to air filter and spark plug, with no need to loosen or remove screws.

Overview

If you want a gas chainsaw for some light cutting but don’t want to wield something as heavy as the Husqvarna 455 Rancher, you might want to check out the Jonsered CS2245. Jonsered is also a Swedish company like Husqvarna and they are both renowned for making high quality gas chainsaws that deliver in both performance and reliability. So, who is the CS2245 for? It features a 45.7cc engine and is outfitted with a 18” bar, so we believe this is a nice little saw for cutting firewood out of branches and small logs. It can also be used for DIY projects and is relatively maneuverable compared to the 455 Rancher which weighs nearly 2.4 pounds more and has a more powerful engine (55.5cc).

Jonsered claims that the CS2245 will fit bars up to 18” in length, allowing you to fell medium size trees and buck logs that are over 2 feet in width. Just like the Husqvarna 455 Rancher, the Jonsered CS2245 has a unique air intake system which extracts all the large debris from incoming air before they reach the air filter. Another feature we really love is the snap – lock engine cover which lets you access the spark plug and air filter without requiring any tools. Just pop open the plastic latch, and you should be able to lift off the top cover. Filling and monitoring bar oil levels is super easy thanks to the transparent oil level window and conveniently located oil cap.

For more information read our indepth review of the Jonsered CS2245 gas chainsaw.

Makita DCS6421RFG

20″ 64 cc gas chainsaw. Designed to handle all of your heavy-duty cutting needs. One of the best professional chainsaws.

Features:

Easy-starting automatic half throttle lock
Chain compartment is easy to clean and clears chips away efficiently
Slide out baffle can be configured for efficient cold weather operation
Large metal spike bar for increased productivity
Two-point durable inertia/mechanical chain brake
Decompression valve reduces force required for starting
High power-to-weight ratio: weighs only 13.9 lbs. (with chain)
Maximum engine speed of 13,500 RPM
Lateral chain tensioning for quick and convenient chain adjustment
Advanced vibration dampening system engineered to reduce vibration

Overview

It weighs just 13.9 pounds, has a little 2 – stroke 64cc engine that revs up to 13,500 rpm, and makes more than enough power to chop down 100 – foot tall trees. The Makita DCS6421RFG is interesting from every possible angle, except for the incredibly uninspired and overly complicated model name. So, what can this 20” gas chainsaw do? It will slice through logs as thick as 40”, rip through hardwood of all sorts including oak, mahogany, pine, and trim down 6” x 6” lumber with incredible ease. Working on a new outdoor table, or bench? Perhaps a brand-new wooden deck? The Makita DCS6421RFG can handle all of your DIY projects.

Even though this saw might be a little overkill if you simply want to chop a little bit of firewood, you can certainly use it for that because the whole thing is so light. And starting up the Makita DCS6421RFG is super easy because of the spring assisted recoil starter. It even uses a specially designed low rpm starter coil so that you exert 30 percent less force on the cord with each pull compared to traditional gas chainsaws. You can tell that Makita designed this saw with foresters in mind, because of the large metal bucking spikes.

What are the different types of chainsaws?

Gas Chainsaws

This type of chainsaw is by far, the most commonly used. The reason for the popularity of gas chainsaws is their great balance between power and weight, even when you compare them to cordless models. And in rural areas or farms where electricity supply is limited, a gas chainsaw allows the user to work all day, if they have sufficient fuel nearby. Most people who go into the forest with their trucks to fell trees for firewood use gas chainsaws, because the raw power of a large gas model is hard to match even if you are wielding one of the latest cordless chainsaws from Makita or DeWalt.

According to this 2007 survey by the Canadian Office of Energy Efficiency, chainsaws are owned by nearly one quarter of households that don’t live in apartments. And the interesting thing we want to point out here, is the percentage of gas chainsaw owners with respect to electric chainsaw owners. In urban areas, 75 percent of all chainsaw owners use gas models while nearly 29 percent of them use electric (some people own both). However, in rural areas a whopping 94 percent of chainsaw owners use gas while only 8 percent use electric. Why is gas so much more popular among rural chainsaw owners? Most of it has to do with fuel availability and noise.

In urban areas, there are plenty of ways to charge your cordless electric chainsaw and you can easily visit the nearby store to purchase extra batteries if your existing battery fails. Another reason why the usage of electric chainsaws in urban areas is higher compared to rural areas would be the restrictions on noise and emissions in local communities, parks, etc. Many homeowner associations have rules about noise levels after sunset and during early morning. So, if you are a DIYer and rev up your noisy gas chainsaw at 7am in the morning to work on that new outdoor table, expect your neighbors to be “slightly” annoyed. Consider that your average gas chainsaw can easily generate more than 100 decibels of noise (at the operator’s ear), which is comparable to a jet aircraft taking off or the front row at a rock concert.

Things are different when you live on a farm or own a piece of land. People who go out into the woods for felling trees don’t need to worry about noise levels too much, instead they need raw power and portability. A large gas chainsaw is your best option if you want to fell or buck trees. Electric models can be used for limbing or pruning the fallen tree trunks, which is why many foresters and farm owners often pair their large gas chainsaws with a small cordless electric unit. And unless you have a portable generator, finding electrical outlets to charge your corded chainsaw can be pretty hard on a farm.

Cordless Chainsaws

Even though gas chainsaws have been around for a really long time and make up most of the chainsaw market, electric models are getting better with each year and people are slowly beginning to understand the unique benefits that come with owning one of these. And while electric chainsaws can be divided into two types – corded and cordless, the latter is what we are more interested in. After all, you can’t exactly walk around in the woods with a corded model unless you also bring a portable generator with you. And instead of going through all that hassle, people just get a gas model since you aren’t tethered to an outlet with a gas chainsaw.

But cordless models offer you the same degree of freedom as a gas chainsaw. And, they carry all the benefits of a corded electric model – clean power, smooth torque delivery, easy maintenance, etc. without most of the drawbacks. Well, there is the price issue but that is something you have to deal with in order to stay on the cutting edge of technology. Cordless chainsaws are more expensive than their wired counterparts and most of that has to do with the battery and motor design. A corded chainsaw is also slightly heavier because of the batteries, but it isn’t a big deal anymore with modern lithium ion battery packs which allow the latest cordless chainsaws to be just as light, if not lighter than gas chainsaws with similar cutting power.

The only real drawback (and perhaps the biggest one) of a cordless chainsaw is its runtime. With a gas chainsaw, you can just refill the tank from your jerry can whenever fuel levels run low. Cordless chainsaws on the other hand, need time to charge their battery. Some of the manufacturers have designed fast charging systems and advanced batteries to work around this issue, but even with a quick charger it will take you around 45 minutes to juice up the battery from zero to full. If your particular cordless chainsaw doesn’t support quick charge, it may even take as long as 2 hours. Which is why, cordless chainsaw makers recommend that you carry two or three batteries with you whenever you go out to cut some wood with your cordless saw.

Whenever one battery is depleted, you can swap it out with a fresh one within seconds and continue working. All cordless chainsaws have a battery level indicator similar to your phone, so that you can monitor charge levels and switch out battery packs so that you don’t end up with a dead chainsaw in the middle of something important (like felling a tree).

If you are at your home working on a DIY project or pruning garden trees, you don’t need any more than two batteries for your cordless saw. Why? Well, most saws these days have fast charging batteries which charge up in almost the same amount of time that it takes for them to go empty. So, while you are working with one battery plugged into the saw, your 2^nd battery is sitting on the charger ready to replace the current one as soon as it runs out. This is not possible in the middle of the woods because you can’t charge your battery unless you have a 120V socket nearby. Hence when you go into the woods with your electric saw, make sure to carry 3 or 4 batteries if you want a full day of work out of it. Especially if you are felling or bucking hardwood trees. And no, it is not a good idea to use a portable generator for charging your cordless saw. Unless you also have other power tools that require a portable generator to run, don’t get one just to charge your chainsaw in the middle of the forest. If you are going to make so much noise and burn gas to run a portable generator, why not save yourself the money and get a gas chainsaw in the first place?

Electric Chainsaws

Technically speaking, both cordless and electric chainsaws are the same thing with the only difference being that one runs from a battery and the other needs to be plugged into an outlet. Why do most people call corded models electric chainsaws? It is just a name that stuck over time and was even used by plenty of manufacturers in their marketing. Similar to how people call inverter generators “inverters” even though an inverter is not the same thing as a generator.

Anyway, let us take a look at electric chainsaws and how they differ from cordless ones. The most obvious thing that separates the two is that one has a cord while the other does not. An electric or corded chainsaw must be plugged into an outdoor electrical outlet or extension cord for it to work. And while the chainsaw itself is lighter than a cordless model because of the absence of batteries, the weight of the cord needs to be factored in. Corded chainsaws are light at the hand compared to gas and cordless models, but lengthy electric cord hanging around behind you makes it pretty annoying if you want to move around a lot while working. Another major issue with having a 50-foot cord behind you is the chance that kids and pets might trip over it and hurt themselves along with you, if you are using the saw at the time.

Despite their obvious drawbacks, electric chainsaws are quite popular (mainly among gardeners and DIYers) for various reasons. Firstly, these cordless chainsaws are much cheaper than gas or cordless models. And, they are also the easiest to use – you don’t have to worry about mixing fuel (gas chainsaws) or charging batteries (cordless chainsaws). Just plug it in, and you are good to go. However, this plug – and -play feature can become a huge demerit when the power goes down during a blackout. Unless you have a portable generator for home backup, your electric chainsaw becomes an oversized paperweight when the storm hits. Talking of storms and blackouts, you won’t be able to clear any of those fallen trees around your house with a corded electric chainsaw once the storm has passed away.

Well then, we know two things about the corded electric chainsaw – your range and mobility are limited by the length of the cord, and it needs a constant supply of 120V AC power in order to run. With those two things in mind, who would need a corded electric chainsaw? Well, how about a person who doesn’t care about mobility all that much? Maybe you are using it within the confines of your garage to work on some DIY home improvement projects. Or perhaps you are just using the corded chainsaw to prune some trees in your backyard (assuming you don’t own a very large property).

Here is another scenario in which the corded chainsaw is perfect – you fell a tree deep within the woods with your gas chainsaw and chop it up into logs which you then load onto your truck bed and bring home. Now, instead of annoying the entire neighborhood with the same gas saw that you used to fell the tree, you can employ a small 14” corded electric chainsaw to create usable pieces of firewood out of those logs. Not only does the smaller bar and lighter weight of the electric chainsaw make it more maneuverable for limbing and slicing up logs, but it is also much quieter and you won’t fill up your own home with exhaust fumes.

Types of chainsaw batteries

Before we move on, let us take a look at the evolution of cordless tool batteries. All modern cordless tools use lithium ion batteries, but earlier cordless chainsaws, drills, etc. were powered by nickel cadmium and nickel metal hydride batteries. The main reason cordless chainsaws of today can challenge gas powered models is because of the great improvements in battery technology.

Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) batteries

This is a type of rechargeable battery that uses nickel oxide hydroxide and metallic cadmium electrodes. Up until the mid 1990’s, the majority of rechargeable batteries in homes were nickel cadmium based. You could find them in everything from cameras and kid’s toys, to power tools like cordless chainsaws and drills. Nickel Cadmium batteries were even used on satellites orbiting the Earth, and on the International Space Station! (The ISS batteries have since been upgraded) But why did the NiCad battery die out? There are many reasons, one of which is a drawback known as “memory effect”. When you discharge and recharge a NiCad battery to the exact same state of charge (within a 2% margin of variability), the battery will remember a specific point in its charge cycle where recharging begins. And when you use it, the battery will drop voltage suddenly at that charge point as if it had been completely depleted.

Some devices using NiCad batteries were engineered to get by this voltage drop for a certain duration until the battery returned to normal. Other devices would just die all of a sudden because of memory effect. But that isn’t the only reason we don’t use NiCad anymore – it is extremely harmful to the environment. These batteries contain Cadmium electrodes, and Cadmium happens to be a really toxic heavy metal. Industrial NiCad batteries are composed of up to 6% Cadmium, while commercial versions of these batteries can contain as much as 18% Cadmium. Cadmium intake in human beings can result in a variety of liver problems, along with risks of developing cancer.

Pros

Somewhat resilient to damage from heat and physical impact
Life cycle of around 1000 charges or more
Capable of high current flow
Less easily affected by being stored in deep discharge
Quite inexpensive compared to other battery types

Cons

NiCad batteries are the heaviest (compared to nickel metal hydride and lithium ion)
They have a lower capacity
If these batteries drop below 70% energy between charges, their lifetime is gradually shortened
Need to cool down before being recharged
You need to discharge them completely at least once a month (deep discharge), before recharging in order to avoid memory effect
Harmful to the environment because of Cadmium content

Nickel Metal Hydroxide (NiMH) batteries

Both NiCad and NiMH batteries use nickel oxide hydroxide at the positive electrode, but unlike NiCad this battery uses a hydrogen – absorbing alloy instead of Cadmium for the negative electrode. As a result, not only does NiMH have much higher energy density compared to NiCad but its environmental impact is much lower. There is still the pollution caused by nickel mining, but at least we aren’t dumping cadmium into the soil. In 2008, more than 2 million hybrid cars sold worldwide used NiMH batteries. The EU replaced NiCad batteries with NiMH for consumer usage with its new Battery Directive.

Pros

Higher energy density allows NiMH batteries to run for 3 times longer than NiCad batteries
Lighter than NiCad
More expensive than the obsolete NiCad design, but cheaper than Lithium Ion
Much more environment friendly compared to NiCad
Less prone to memory effect than NiCad

Cons

Life cycle can be as long as NiCad if stored and charged properly, but is around 500 on average (NiCad lasts up to 1000 charge cycles)
Sensitive to temperature, should be stored and operated between 33°F to 103°F (0.55 to 39.44 degrees Celsius)
Deep discharge and long periods of rest will damage the batteries, shortening their lifespan
Even though the extent of memory effect is reduced compared to NiCad, it still needs a deep discharge every 3 months

Lithium Ion (Li – Ion) batteries

When you purchase a cordless chainsaw or any cordless power tool today, it is going to come with Lithium Ion batteries. This is the newest technology in rechargeable batteries, and has several benefits compared to its predecessors – NiCad and NiMH. One of the main reasons Li – Ion batteries are so good for cordless chainsaws is their relatively low charging times compared to NiCad and NiMH batteries.

When you pair these new batteries with a specially designed rapid charger, you can recharge them from zero to full in the same time that it takes to completely discharge them. Which means with just two batteries, you can cut an entire day’s worth of firewood with your cordless chainsaw as long as you have an outlet nearby to plug in the charger. Li – Ion batteries also have a very high energy density, so they can last much longer compared to NiCad and NiMH with each charge. And the technology of Li – Ion is constantly evolving, so we will soon be able to overcome their few disadvantages. The major problems with Li – Ion is its cost and sensitivity to high temperatures, particularly during charging.

Pros

Highest energy density out of all three battery types
Can be designed into almost any shape
Much less sensitive to low temperatures compared to NiMH
Doesn’t suffer from memory effect, and self – discharge rates are negligible (1.5 to 2 percent per month)
The lightest type of battery we have
Disposing a Li – Ion battery doesn’t harm the environment

Cons

Most expensive of all three battery types
Excessive heat will damage the battery and may even cause it to catch fire
Lifetime can vary quiet a bit, although the average Li – Ion battery loses much of its capacity after nearly 1000 cycles

Features to look for when buying a chainsaw

Anti – kickback chain brake: THE single most important feature on any modern chainsaw, in fact you are not going to find one that doesn’t have an inertial chain brake because this piece of safety equipment is required by law to be installed in all chainsaws being sold on the market. How does it work? Well, there is a spring – loaded metal band sitting next to the clutch drum underneath the side cover of your chainsaw. When you push the lever to activate the brake, this metal band grips the clutch drum really hard and stops it from spinning. Since the clutch drum is what drives the sprocket that spins your saw chain, stopping the drum means you also stopped the chain. All of this happens in a few hundredths of a second.

Stop control: When you encounter an emergency and don’t just want to stop the chain but turn off the engine itself, you use the stop control. This will stop electricity from flowing to the spark plug and effectively stop the engine immediately.

Throttle interlock: A lever on top of the rear handle that you need to depress simultaneously along with the trigger if you want to start the chainsaw. It is kind of like a security feature to ensure that your finger never accidentally activates the throttle when you don’t want it to.

Low kickback bar and chain: Specially designed cutters with less aggressive cutting angles and modified tie straps that act as taller depth gauges when the chain travels around the tip of the bar. Low kickback chains limit the amount of “bite” that the chain has around the tip of the bar. Some bars have covers screwed onto the nose so that you can’t cut with the tip.

Anti vibration system: You may not notice it at first but holding a constantly vibrating object in your hands for long periods of time can cause nerve damage and a feeling of numbness. It can also mess with blood flow in your hands, which is why chainsaws incorporate built-in suspension to separate the engine from the rest of the frame. This suspension dampens vibration transfer between the chainsaw motor and frame, reducing the risk of nerve injury and disruption to blood flow in your hands.

Tool–free chain tensioning: If you don’t want to pull out a screwdriver and wrench every time you need to make a minor tension adjustment in your saw chain, check out some of the latest models with toolless chain tensioning and bar adjustment. Just turn a couple of knobs on the side cover, and your chain tension can be increased or decreased. This feature is usually found only on light and medium duty chainsaws with bar lengths under 16”, especially the electric models. Most heavy duty or professional grade chainsaws with larger bars don’t come with this feature.

Tool-free access to spark plug and air filter: Professionals need to check the air filters and spark plugs frequently, so premium gas chainsaws come with easily removable top covers for quick access to key components that need routine checks or timely replacement.

Bucking Spikes: You will find a set of metal spikes attached to the front of the chainsaw powerhead, right beside the bar. These spikes come in different shapes and sizes and are meant to dig into the wood and secure the saw while you are bucking giant logs or felling trees.

Chain catcher: A little metal pin located behind the point where the bar meets the powerhead. It is designed to prevent a broken saw chain from snapping at the operator. If a chain breaks while the saw is running, it will wrap itself around the chain catcher and the operator will remain unharmed.

Heated carburetor and handle: These features are found only on the most expensive gas chainsaws, typically ones with engines larger than 65 or 70cc. Heated carburetors don’t ice over during the winter, or when you’re operating in high altitudes. And heated handles keep your hands warm and capable of functioning even when it is freezing outside.

Your chainsaw has a chain, not a blade

This is something we need everyone reading this article to understand – there are NO blades anywhere on any chainsaw, ever. If you call up the dealer or customer support to purchase a new chain and say, “I need a replacement blade for my chainsaw” they will immediately know that you are an amateur. This is how the chain works on your chainsaw – there are cutters positioned on the saw chain, connected by drive links which have little teeth underneath them that fit into the drive sprocket. These drive links are held together by tie straps, one for each side of the drive link. Before purchasing a chainsaw, you need to know about the three most important measurements for a chainsaw chain – Pitch, Gauge, and Number of Links (length). These 3 parameters are what you need to know before you shop online for a new chain or ask the local dealer for a replacement chain when your old one breaks.

Pitch: Look at the tie straps on your saw chain, these are held together to the rest of the components with rivets. Chain “pitch” refers to the distance between drive links. How to measure the pitch of a saw chain? Take the distance between any 3 consecutive rivets and divide that number by 2. This is the pitch of your saw chain, and it must match the pitch of the drive sprocket as well as bar nose sprocket (if your chainsaw bar has one). Chainsaw pitch lengths are standardized, and here are the most common ones – 0.325″, 3/8″ (0.375) and 0.404″.
Gauge: The drive link on your saw chain has two parts – a lower section that slides between the bar rails, and the top section which connects the cutters. The lower section of the drive link is slimmer, and you need to get its thickness correct with respect to the gauge of the bar that your chainsaw uses. If the gauge of your saw chain drive links is too high, it won’t fit in. If the gauge is too low, the chain will flop around inside the bar and might derail easily while you’re cutting wood. This can result in serious injury. Most common gauges for saw chains are – 0.050″ (1.3 mm), 0.058″ (1.5 mm), and 0.063″ (1.6 mm).
Number of links: This one should be easy, since you don’t need any kind of measuring device. All you have to do is count the number of drive links, which should give you the length of your particular saw chain. Chainsaws with longer bars will need a chain with more drive links, and the same is true for chainsaws with taller bars. When we say the bar is “taller”, we are referring to the sprocket diameter which is larger in taller bars. There are 3 dimensions to a bar – length, height, and thickness. The length and height control the number of chain links, while the thickness or gap between the bar rails controls the gauge of the chain.

Most of the time you won’t have to pull out a measuring device to measure these three parameters, since they are stamped or printed right on the side of the bar. You will have to remove the side plate (also called clutch cover) to access this piece of information, it is usually printed at the very deep end of the bar to prevent the print from getting damaged as you cut through wood. And if the info isn’t there, you can check the chain itself for pitch, gauge, and drive link numbers. Make sure to check both sides of the bar before you inspect the chain, since the bar is usually flipped around before reinstallation during each maintenance session. This is done to ensure equal wear on both sides of the bar rail, so the cut you make isn’t biased towards one side over the other.

Chainsaw kickback

What is it?

Kickback is when the nose or tip of your chainsaw guide bar gets pinched by an immovable object, causing the chainsaw to violently recoil back towards you. This is a really dangerous situation and has permanently disfigured plenty of chainsaw users across the world. It can easily result in death on the spot if the chainsaw happens to slice through the neck or face. And don’t think you are safe from kickback even if you’re a professional – it can happen to the best of us and has taken the lives of several arborists and lumberjacks. Chainsaw kickback doesn’t give you much time to react and move yourself out of the way. It all happens within a fraction of a second, and before you know it the damage is done.

Types of Chainsaw Kickback

Why does it happen?

Inside a chainsaw powerhead, there is a motor (gas or electric) which is turning the saw chain at speeds in excess of 50 miles per hour. So, each one of those cutters is speeding along the bar of the chainsaw at over 73 feet per second. This speed means the cutters on a chainsaw are going fast enough to cover an entire football field in less than 5 seconds. Think about the enormous amount of force and momentum being carried by the spinning chain.

What will happen if something gets in the way of the chain, and the cutters can’t slice through it? This will cause the momentum of the chain to swing back in the other direction, so now instead of a spinning chain we get a moving bar that is headed straight for the person operating this saw. Remember that all this while, even though the saw chain has stopped the engine is still spinning and the clutch has not disengaged which means the recoil from hitting an immovable object will be even more depending on how much throttle you have applied.

There are two main reasons why the chain suddenly stops :

Bar tip dig–in: As you know, there are little cutters mounted to the saw chain that allow it to slice through materials. These cutters move around the bar and are designed to cut into a specific amount of material depending on the design of the cutting edge, as we as the size of the depth gauge. The cutters are at their most aggressive angle when they are moving around the tip or nose of the guide bar.

Normally they are traveling in a straight line, but while traversing the nose of the bar these cutters are at a tangent to the circle whose diameter is defined by the size of the nose sprocket. And when the top end of the bar nose comes in contact with solid objects, these cutters attack that object at a very aggressive angle and go way too deep into the material. They are unable to slice through and get stuck. Now, you have a sudden stop in the chain which causes all that momentum to swing back the other way. The most dangerous kickbacks are often caused by bar tip dig – in, and the effect is further amplified if the cutters hit something like a metal nail that is embedded within the wood.

VIDEO | See How to Avoid Chainsaw Kickback

Chain pinching: When you are trying to cut a log of wood from underneath, using the top of the bar it may collapse inwards with the cut being wider at the bottom and thinner as you gradually make your way towards the top of the log. This will cause the two halves of the log to capsize inwards and away from each other at the top of the cut, inevitably pinching your saw chain from both sides. In this type of kickback, the motion isn’t directly vertically upwards but instead the saw shoots back in a straight line. This is similar to the recoil you get when firing a gun, the saw doesn’t pivot around and come for your face like with bar tip dig – in, but it jumps straight out of the cut and might throw you off your footing, causing you to fall face down into a running saw.

How to prevent chainsaw kickback?

First off all, you need to constantly monitor the position of the bar nose. Even if you can’t see it because the tip of the bar isn’t within your direct line of sight, make a mental image of where it should be based on the object you are cutting and the environment around it. Operating a chainsaw is a lot like driving a car – not only are you focused on operating the chainsaw itself, but you are constantly monitoring the environment around you for changes. Look for movements in the log that you are cutting, anything at all that might close in on the chain and pinch it.

Inspect logs, stumps, and wooden boards before you cut into them. How long have they been there? What type of wood is it, do you notice any rotting on the inside, etc. If you are cutting through logs that have previously been used in construction of stuff like wooden cabins, houses, etc. make sure that you are constantly on the lookout for nails. When your chain hits a nail, it is going to stop unless you are using a specialized saw chain designed for cutting through metal.

Select the right saw for the job, and always maintain a firm grip with both hands so you can mitigate the kickback when it happens. If possible, try to keep your body out of the line through which the saw is cutting so that it doesn’t hit you when it jumps back. Monitor the environment constantly, keep your footwork solid and make sure you aren’t using the saw while standing on loose objects or on top of a ladder. Only use saws that are equipped with anti – kickback brakes on the top. You need to check the brake manually to see if it works every time you start your saw.

Wear chainsaw chaps, along with hearing and eye protection. And finally, make sure that your chainsaw is using a sharp chain. You know the saying “a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one”, and a dull chainsaw chain can do more damage than any dull knife in the history of dull knives. If the chain is not sharpened well, there are more chances of it getting stuck or pinched in the wood, and this means you are more likely to get a kickback.

My gas chainsaw won’t start, what to do?

One of the main issues with gas chainsaws is the maintenance aspect that comes with owning any power tool that uses a small engine. It is easier to maintain than your car engine (and much cheaper too), but you still have to do regular checkups and replace worn out components. A gas chainsaw may not start up for a number of reasons. Maybe it is a brand–new chainsaw, but you over choked it or pressed the primer bulb one too many times.

Example of a recoil starter on the Honda EU2200i generator

My generator won't start, troubleshooting guide. — Honda EU2200i : Honda generators usually start, but what if it doesn’t?

Choke is needed for cold starts, but when your engine is already warm the only thing you are doing by using the choke is unnecessarily flooding the cylinder and spark plug within your chainsaw’s 2–stroke engine. The spark doesn’t ignite actual liquid fuel, instead it lights up a vapor mixture of gasoline particles and air. So, if the combustion chamber is flooded with liquid gasoline, it can never ignite to begin combustion and the engine will stay dead no matter how many times you pull the cord. There just isn’t enough air in the cylinder, and the spark plug cannot come in contact with fuel – air vapor because it is covered in a coat of liquid gasoline.

In extreme situations, the entire cylinder is flooded with fuel up to the point where you can’t even pull the recoil starter cord because the piston is jammed. Gasoline oil is in-compressible; hence the piston cannot move upwards. This is what we call a “hydrolocked engine”. One of the ways to deal with a hydrolocked engine without any tools whatsoever is to yank really hard on the starter cord to push some of the excess fuel across the space between the piston and the cylinder walls. This is a tiny space, so the first couple of pulls will be really tough. You could even break the starter rope which is why we don’t recommend the toolless method for most users.

Once the pulls begin to feel a little easier, you set the choke on the “run” position and hold the throttle wide open by depressing the trigger to its fullest extent. Then, you set your right knee down on the top of the chainsaw and yank on the starter rope with your right hand while the left hand is on the trigger, keeping the throttle wide open. Keep pulling for about 10 to 15 times, until your saw gradually starts to sputter and smoke. Then it will begin running normally. With the first 10 or 15 pulls, you will notice a very distinct exhaust fume coming out of the muffler – this exhaust fume will be rich in fuel and contains a lot of unburnt particles.

If you’re generator won’t start, check these 3 things (from Generac)

The easier way to unflood your chainsaw is by using a scrench to remove the spark plug, and then turning the saw upside down so all the excess gasoline drains out from the top of the cylinder. Let your spark plug dry, then screw it back onto the cylinder and you should be good to go. Other than flooding, a chainsaw can have other issues that prevent it from starting. Check the spark plug to see if it is generating a spark. Remove the spark plug, using a scrench. You will have to disconnect the spark plug wire before removing it, and then reconnect the wire once you have removed the plug from the cylinder. Now rest the spark plug against a metal part of the chainsaw.

Don’t touch it with any part of your body, and make sure that there is no fuel or flammable material near the plug before you get to the next step. Now to test the plug and see if it works, yank on the starter rope like you would when starting the chainsaw. If the induction coil and magnet in the flywheel are functioning correctly, your plug will spark. If it doesn’t spark, clean the tip of the spark plug with a metal brush. If it still doesn’t work, you might want to replace the plug. If the spark plug doesn’t spark even after you replaced it, the problem is most likely with the induction coil.

For routine maintenance, you need to check the air filter and spark arrestor. Chainsaws generate a lot of fine wooden fiber while cutting, and these fine wood chips can clog up the air filter over time preventing the engine from breathing. Another thing that gets clogged over time is the spark arrestor in the muffler of the chainsaw engine. Note that all chainsaws use 2 – stroke engines which run on a mix of gasoline and engine oil. The recommended ratio for mixing engine oil with gasoline in most chainsaws is 50 parts of gas for 1 part of engine oil, but some chainsaw models specifically instruct the user to go with a 40: 1 gas to oil mix ratio, and there are other models that go even lower with a 35: 1 mix.

If you put too much oil in the fuel, this oil will tend to clog up the spark arrestor because engine oil ignites at much higher temperature than gas and will not burn within the combustion chamber. It will get thrown out along with the waste fumes and get stuck in the spark arrestor. Take out the muffler, examine the spark arrestor and clear out all of the debris stuck to it. With a clean spark arrestor, you should be able to see right through since it is simple mesh made from metal wires.

Top handle vs rear handle chainsaw

This is a topic you won’t ever have to concern yourself with unless you are an arborist who routinely climbs trees and does a lot of single – handed cutting. All dealers and manufacturers require you to provide a certificate of competence before you purchase a top – handled chainsaw, so we are pretty sure you won’t buy one accidentally anytime soon. These chainsaws are simply too dangerous for novice users. Unlike conventional chainsaws which have the throttle control at the back and the foregrip on the top, these top handled chainsaws have the throttle control on the top and the foregrip is now shifted to the side, becoming a sort of side grip.

The weight balance is also different in a top handle chainsaw, because the overall length is much shorter thanks to the new handle position. Top handle chainsaws also have loops on their backs, so you can sling them to your work belt or a rope as you climb up on trees. The compact design and reduced weight make a top handle chainsaw perfect for maneuvering in tight spaces. But the very same characteristics also make kickback far more dangerous on a top handle chainsaw, because there is less distance between the saw chain and your body which means there is less time for you to react. And since both of your hands are so close together, you cannot exert enough force to stop a kickback when it happens.

How do chainsaw chaps protect you?

You have seen chainsaws effortlessly rip through giant logs of wood like they are nothing. But whenever you read an article about chainsaws or watch a video on YouTube, they tell you to wear these apron – like things called chaps. If wood and metal can’t stop chainsaws, what chance on Earth do these cloth aprons have of protecting your legs? Well, first of all this isn’t just any kind of cloth – it is a multilayered mesh of synthetic fibers, and one of its components is Kevlar. You know, the same stuff that is used in body armor to stop bullets, and underneath the bellies of armored vehicles to protect their occupants from IED blasts in Afghanistan. Yeah, that stuff is really strong.

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But even then, a chainsaw chap doesn’t act as an impenetrable barrier which the saw chain can’t cut through. You could do that, but we all know what happens when you try to stop a moving saw chain suddenly – it kicks back and that could do even more harm. Instead, the outer layers give way to the saw chain, so it cuts into the chaps at first. But then as it advances deeper, the Kevlar fibers get entangled within the cutters and are sucked into the chainsaw where they jam the clutch and clog up the drive sprocket. This stalls the engine, and brings the chainsaw to a complete halt before it gets to vital parts of your lower body like the femoral artery, knees, quadriceps, etc.

One of the things you need to note here is that the quality of chainsaw chaps can vary depending on the materials used, and the number of protective layers that it has. A pair of chaps designed to protect your legs from a 30cc saw meant for trimming shrubs will not do anything to stop a powerful 65cc lumberjack chainsaw. So, purchase the correct chaps depending on the power of the saw that you will use. And remember that conventional chainsaw chaps are not very effective against electric chainsaws. The reason being that an electric motor doesn’t have a restricted power band like a gasoline based internal combustion engine.

Electric motors reach maximum torque very early in their rpm range, and don’t want to stop even when the drive sprocket is entangled in Kevlar fibers. The fibers in a chainsaw chap tangle up the clutch drum in a gas chainsaw, but an electric chainsaw doesn’t even have a clutch. Instead, electric chainsaws are equipped with electric brakes which shut down power to the motor (that is how inertial anti-kickback brakes work on electric chainsaws).

Unlike a gas engine which loses power as it begins to slow down, an electric motor will keep producing maximum torque even when its spinning motion is completely stopped. While a gasoline engine needs to breath air in order to generate power, an electric motor can operate in complete vacuum. So, the chaps will barely give you enough time to turn off your electric chainsaw, and only then will the motor stop trying to rotate. But don’t worry too much, these days you can purchase chaps that are specifically designed with electric chainsaws in mind. Some people prefer extended chainsaw chaps which not only protect the front of your legs, but also the back. The theory behind this is that if a chainsaw comes in contact with the chaps, it can tug its way towards the back of your leg where an ordinary chainsaw chap doesn’t provide any protection. Hence, you might want to buy the extended chaps.